Fascinations with Firenze III

It’s been what feels like 10,000 years since I was in Firenze (lol) – I’m just trying to post all my backlog from last year (can’t believe it’s already 2019) before I finally move on and make posting on this site my second nature (how many times have I already said I would make this a regular thing?).

Edit: The previous post on Firenze was actually sitting in my outbox for …. 6 months. BLESS.

Anyway.

I spent the third day alone in Firenze! My mother was not exactly the most pleased about this but well, we wanted to do different things.

I was glad I got to spend the day alone – wandering around Florence on your own is an absolute cup of magic topped with rainbow sprinkles. And rain. It was raining a whole lot on this day – damp drizzles throughout.

Alighting right outside the Pitti Palace and diving head first into the constant drizzles, entering a park right there and then was obviously not the best idea. So instead of doing that, spontaneity kicked in and the decision to wander around cemented itself in my head. Well, to be very honest, walking around aimlessly is not the best idea either, but hey, exploring is boring – said no one ever.

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Palazzo Pitti on a rainy day

So off I went exploring Santo Spirito. March isn’t supposed to be THAT cold, but hell, my nose was running off like it was a tap. The place was kinda gloomy, and not what I expected, but honestly, it was kind of shopper’s heaven except the stores were shut. Compared to the more popular places in Florence, and particularly when the city is awake, this place was a serendipitous repose from the past two days. It like I went back in time, walking amidst the dull ocher buildings, peeping through windows to look at chefs prep food to be sold or to look at what little antiquities the boutiques had to offer.

Santo Spirito felt like a vintage galore, a paradise for those who loved the whimsical.

I also came across the simplest church I have seen in Europe so far (even after 12 European countries!) – Basilica di Santo Spirito. Completed in 1487, one of the architects of this church is also Brunelleschi. It’s amazing how differently the two churches, this and Santa Maria del Fiore, are designed by the same architect and built a mere 50 years apart.

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Basilica di Santo Spirito

The plaza right outside the church also held a weekend market – filled with homemade crafts, honey, different kinds of Italian sausages and other fresh produce, it felt homely to witness the locals shop around for their daily necessities. It was definitely something nice to stumble upon, and I had a fun time exploring the different things up for offer. I love markets y’all – what better place to go on a food hunt?

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Near the market was a small, two-storey sandwich cafe, so I popped by to use the toilet and grab a bite. Finding a toilet is so difficult in Europe. I think if I had to pick one thing that I don’t like about Europe, it would be the inaccessibility of toilets. And the fact that you pretty much have to pay to use them…. My wallet cries. It adds up, and coming from a country where the exchange rate is against the Euro. Well. I’d be damned if I drank the same amount of water I normally do. Fact: I would have to pay more to use the toilet twice than to buy a day’s worth of water.

Can we also just talk about how amazing Tuscan Ham, Prosciutto Toscano, is? Also, I think its a thing to eat alone. I enjoy it. I’ve had friends tell me before that they feel uncomfortable eating alone, and I get that. It’s not something that every person enjoys, but for me, I think once you get used to it, it’s really relaxing and comfortable to simply enjoy your own company and to be surrounded by your thoughts. Eating also kind of gives it a rhythm – the biting and chewing feels like clockwork – it’s like a form of meditation, except that you get to enjoy food along with it HAHA and of course, you also get to sort out your thoughts and feelings at that point in time. Maybe that’s what makes having a meal alone special – both the physical, mental and emotional digestion that you get when having this tiny chasm in your daily routine, where you are surrounded (and at times, overwhelmed) by others around you. Think about it, a meal time is when you would never get interrupted, or called for (or at least, you’re less likely to be sought after, even if you’re a very busy person). It’s as if it’s sacred – a personal bubble of time that you get to yourself. An untouchable. I feel like I could write a book on why meal times are so important – and how eating alone has great perks – but I digress.

Boboli Gardens – This. Place. Is gorgeous.

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Within the Boboli Gardens

Gardens and grotto, actually. Everyone is always fascinated by the flowers and plants here – and yes, they have extremely lush, verdant trees, but I think the coolest part of this garden was the Buontalenti grotto that I chanced upon when exiting.

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Buontalenti Grotto

There’s also a porcelain museum within the Boboli gardens itself, and if you take a left when entering facing the Neptune Fountain, you will eventually find another gate that exits to a carpark, and later to the Forte di Belvedere. I reckon it wasn’t open though – the place looked like it was under renovation or in some sort of reconstruction. What was more intriguing was Porta San Giorgio – it’s the quaintest looking alleyway, and it leads to the entrance of the Bardini Gardens. The pathway was also surprisingly quiet and void of people, which I enjoyed very much because it made exploring feel so much more authentic to me. Anyway, the Bardini Gardens has had different owners throughout history, but now belongs to Stefano Bardini – it’s also another place to enjoy the view of Florence and the river Arno.

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Exiting the Bardini Gardens, I found myself walking along Via di S. Niccolo. This street is filled with restaurants, bars and gelato parlours. It felt like Santo Spirito, but a lot more touristy and less secluded from the rest of the world (Florence). Maybe it’s because it’s nearer the river Arno, so it felt more open and accessible. If there is one thing that I’ve observed from today though, it’s that this side of Florence seems to be much lesser populated by tourists than the other.

So, on to Piazzale Michelangelo. This is arguably one of the most popular places to visit in Florence, well known for its scenic view of the city. Unfortunately, it’s also kind of a pain to get to from the Bardini Gardens – expect to climb up a number of steps and slopes. The plan was to watch the sunset from here, however the damp and gloomy weather didn’t clear up, so as you can guess, the said sunset ceased to exist. On the bright (HAHA) side, the place wasn’t that crowded, probably due to the drizzle, so it wasn’t all that bad after all 😉 Gotta take what you can get.

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Panoramic view of Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo

As the sky darkened, I made my way back to the other side of the river Arno. I found myself a dinner place (after about half an hour of walking, and crossing Ponte alle Grazie) and ordered myself a portion of truffle mushroom cream pasta. Bless you, it was amazing. One of the best pastas I had for sure. Another meal of eating alone – could get used to this I suppose.

And then I called it quits. It was getting late, I was full, and warm and comfortable, and very satisfied with my walk around Florence. And we were to head off to Venice the next morning. So I took a bus back to our AirBnB. This was quite the experience – I felt slightly nervous, because it was dark by then, I understood close to zero Italian, and basically, I had no clue if I was going the right way, relying solely on Google Maps to get me back. Taking a bus in a foreign country is always a minuscule adventure in itself. Perhaps I’d do this in every country I visit from now it – seems pretty cool as to what could possibly happen. Who knows, it could bring new places to dive head first into.

I also very nearly alighted the bus when I saw Geletaria dei Neri, but… I resisted. This was an accomplishment y’all.

Three days in Florence is most definitely not enough. I would like to say that even a lifetime may not be enough, but that would just make me sad cos there is a whole!! World!! Out!! There!! And so many other places I would like my feet to carry me to. But there is no doubt that this city is an oasis with so much to offer. I’ll be back for sure.

All my love,

Dice

 

 

 

 

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